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Coal-tar color-containing hair-dye products — contain ingredients that may cause skin irritation on certain individuals, and a preliminary test according to the product's accompanying directions should first be made. Users are cautioned not to dye eyelashes or eyebrows because doing so may cause blindness. In addition, the ammonia, soaps, detergents, conditioning agents, and dyes in hair-dye products are all strong eye irritants and could also cause allergic reactions in other areas.

The following products require explicit warnings, though not with specific wording:

Depilatories and hair straighteners — are highly alkaline; if they are used incorrectly, they may cause serious skin irritation.

Shampoos, rinses and conditioners — can cause eye problems that range from irritation to permanent damage. If the eye's cornea is scratched or otherwise damaged, a contaminated product could cause infection. These cosmetics, as well as others that contain water, usually have antimicrobials that discourage growth of bacteria.

Nail builders (elongators, extenders, hardeners, and enamels) — can cause irritation, inflammation and infection of the nail bed and nail fold (where the nail meets the finger) due to residual traces of the methacrylate monomers. Also, nail hardeners and enamels often contain formaldehyde and formaldehyde-releasing preservatives, which may cause allergic reactions in people who are sensitive to them. In addition, the solvents or plasticizers may be irritating. Nail enamels that are also nail hardeners cause the most problems. Their high resin content or low concentration of plasticizer seals the nail surface to air and makes the nail too brittle. Another frequent problem is flammability during and shortly after application. These products require a flammability caution.

Flammable products such as aerosol hair sprays containing alcohol and an isobutane propellant — include caution statements on the label. Also, the label usually cautions about avoiding heat, fire and smoking during use until the product is fully dry. Last year, FDA received reports of a fatality that occurred from burns suffered when a woman's hair ignited. Apparently, she tried to light a cigarette before her hair spray had completely dried.

Manufacturers often use warning statements on labels when there is even a small chance of a problem. Baby products often contain such warnings. Baby powder, for example, if used carelessly and accidentally inhaled by the baby in large amounts, can block the infant's bronchial and lung passages and cause suffocation. (For more about cosmetic safety, see "Cosmetic Safety: More Complex Than at First Blush" in the November 1991 FDA Consumer.)

Cosmetic labels are more than product advertising. They connect cosmetic science with consumer protection by providing a means for consumers to know what's in a product and how to safely use it. A wise consumer will take the time to read the label to get the best value and results without incurring any of the possible harmful effects.

Common Ingredients

At present, the cosmetic industry selects from more than 5,000 different ingredients. It's no wonder consumers can be perplexed when they see the list. Here are some common cosmetic ingredients and their usual functions (active drug ingredients are not included):

Moisturizers function as a moisture barrier or to attract moisture from the environment:

• cetyl alcohol (fatty alcohol) — keeps oil and water from separating, also a foam booster
• dimethicone — silicone skin conditioner and anti-foam ingredient
• isopropyl lanolate, myristate, and palmitate
• lanolin and lanolin alcohols and oil (used in skin and hair conditioners)
• octyl dodecanol — skin conditioner
• oleic acid (olive oil)
• panthenol (vitamin B-complex derivative) — hair conditioner
• stearic acid and stearyl alcohol

Preservatives and antioxidants (including vitamins) to prevent product deterioration:

• trisodium and tetrasodium edetate (EDTA)
• tocopherol (vitamin E)

Antimicrobials to fight bacteria:

• butyl, propyl, ethyl, and methyl parabens
• DMDM hydantoin
• methylisothiazolinone
• phenoxyethanol (also rose ether fragrance component)
• quaternium-15

Thickeners and waxes used in stick products such as lipsticks and blushers:

• candelilla, carnauba, and microcrystalline waxes
• carbomer and polyethylene — thickeners

Solvents to dilute:

• butylene glycol and propylene glycol
• cyclomethicone (volatile silicone)
• ethanol (alcohol)
• glycerin

Emulsifiers to break up and refine:

• glyceryl monostearate (also pearlescent agent)
• lauramide DEA (also foam booster)
• polysorbates

Color additives — synthetic organic colors derived from coal and petroleum sources (not permitted for use around the eye):

• D&C Red No. 7 Calcium Lake (lakes are dyes that do not dissolve in water)

Inorganic pigments — approved for general use in cosmetics, including for the area of the eye:

• iron oxides
• mica (iridescent)

Hair dyes — phenol derivatives used in combination with other chemicals in permanent (two-step) hair dyes:

• aminophenols

pH adjusters to stabilize or adjust acids and bases:

• ammonium hydroxide — in skin peels and hair waving and straightening
• citric acid — adjusts pH
• triethanolamine — pH adjuster used mostly in transparent soap

Others:

• magnesium aluminum silicate — absorbent, anti-caking agent
• silica (silicon dioxide) — absorbent, anti-caking, abrasive
• sodium lauryl sulfate — detergent
• stearic acid — cleansing, emulsifier
• talc (powdered magnesium silicate) — absorbent, anti-caking
• zinc stearate — used in powder to improve texture, lubricates.

About the Author

www.fda.gov
FDA is A United States government body that oversees medical devices, including contact lenses, intraocular lenses, excimer lasers and eyedrops. In the US, these products must be approved by the FDA before they can be marketed.